C3 Painting Guide for Defor {Step by Step}

Weather worn and rust beaten we take a step by step examination of Dan’s Concord Strike Troopers as they go from base coat through amour panels, fine details, lighting effects and basing all in one giant article .

Prep work


  1. Assemble your troops and give them a serious going over with pliers, a hobby drill, a knife and anything that makes convincing battle damage, more on these techniques in a future article.01
  2. Batch spray your strike squads all at once, it’s a good time saver. All you need is a sheet of spare cardboard, some blu-tack and a black model spray primer .I use GW Chaos Black because of extended hobby stockholm syndrome and am yet to find anything that provides the same level of coverage. It is however muchos $$$$.02
  3. Make sure your little guy (or girl/beastie/vehicle) is evenly covered with primer

Rust Underpainting


  1. Add a Brown layer of base coat spray GW Mournfang Brown. Hit it from the top of the model and a little bit on the sides, try keep some black in the recesses as an easy pre-shade.04
  2. Drybrush Basalt Grey (Vallejo Game Colour), leave some brown where the armour has reached maximum corrosion and damage05
  3. Wash a liberal coat of Sepia Shade (Vallejo Game Colour), once it dries you it turns a really nasty grimey tint.06
  4. Drybrush Red Leather (Vallejo Game Colour) again, leave some of the work you’ve already done to create a contrast between the armour that has pealed and the areas that have rusted over.07
  5. Drybrush Orange Brown (Vallejo Game Colour), keep leaving those leftover spots, contrast is our thing08
  6. Drybrush Clear Orange (Vallejo Game Colour)09
  7. Drybrush Dark Red Ochre weathering pigment.

NOTE: this will knacker your Drybrush so use a busted up one. You may wish to cover your clothes, I’ve lost track of the amount of times I’ve had to hose down my hoodie while doing this step.

By all means if you just want to do rust cease reading now and get painting

All of the paints and pigments used in the rusting process are available in Vallejo’s “Rust and Steel” weathering set. “Rost und Shtal” on the packaging because deutsch language

Mask IT!


  1. Apply some blobs of Masking Fluid in a selection of spots all around the armour. I just used whatever masking fluid was available at my local (House of War is good for these things)

Once it dries these are the areas that will “stay rusty”. Around the edges of the armour plates, on the knee pads, on raised areas and around the battle damage are effective places to do this


  1. Let it dry, the blobs will turn transparent

Armour Plates


  1. Base coat Thar Brown (Scale 75) on the shoulders, torso and limbs13
  2. Panel the armour plates with Mojave White (Scale 75)15
  1. Highlight with White (Scale 75)

Secondary Areas: helmet plates, knee pads, fingers, gun and sheos


  1. Base coat Gris Pertroleo (Scale 75) on all of the aforementioned area17
  2. Panel areas with Brown Grey (Scale 75)18
  3. Highlight your edges with Rainy Grey (Scale 75)

All of the paints used for the Amour Plates and Secondary Areas are available in the Scale 75 “Black and White” paint set. Scale 75’s are amongst the best paints I have ever used, their coverage and pigment content is top notch, they have a great range of unusual colours and offer a selection of themed sets and swatches.

Finishing Touches: helmet, chest optics and squad markings


  1. Panel the areas with Averland Sunset (Citadel).
    I use a horizontal stripe on the knee pad and a single diagonal stripe on the shoulder as squad markings. Leaders get a double stripe so they can be easily noticed.


  2. Add a simple panel of Balor Brown (Citadel).


  3. Add a second panel of Cygnus Yellow (P3), this paint has really good coverage and thick pigment count for such an intensely lurid colour.

Remove the masking fluid

  1. Hit this guy with a clean but very rigid and hard drybrush.
  2. You may have to tear into it a bit, be careful not to take off any extra paint but it does sometimes happen.23
  3. Admire your hard work. Good job (we’re not done yet)

Lighting effects: Helmet optics and gun lighting


  1. Base coat Jokero Orange (Citadel)25
  2. Glaze a mix of Troll Slayer Orange (Citadel) and Lahmain Medium (Citadel) over the base coated areas.
    It’ll add to the lighting effect if you let the glaze bleed over the edges of each area a tiny bit, this is where the maximum edges of your glow will be 


  3. Highlight with Fire Dragon Bright (Citadel)


  1. Edge highlight with incrementally lighter mixes of Fire Dragon Bright (Citadel) and White (Scale 75)

Basing, Dirt and Tar pits


  1. Base coat dirt with Mephiston Red (Citadel) you can also use Skorne Red instead (P3) 


  2. Base coat tar pits with Flat Black (Scale 75)30
  3. Wash the whole base with Sepia Shade (Vallejo Game Colour) get some on the feet and legs as well, it’ll add to the weathering.31
  4. Drybrush the dirt Jokero Orange (Citadel)
  5. Weather the dirt with Rust Red (Secret Weapon Pigments)
    again don’t get this on your clothes or your carpet
  6. Drybrush a very light coat of Rust Red (Secret Weapon Pigments) on some of the sections of the armour34
  7. Do a second light Drybrush of Jokero Orange (Citadel) to warm the colour of the dirt up35
  8. Glaze the tar with a thin mix of Gris Grafeno (P3) and Lahmian Medium (Citadel)
    You want the tops of the waves to stick out over the layer of glaze. 


  1. WHILE THE GLAZE IS DRYING wet-blend Thunderhawk Blue (Citadel) into the tar.

*** Do this by adding small blobs of Thunderhawk into the pools of Gris Grafeno, once you have placed the blobs drag them through the patches of grey to create streaks of blue that will slowly dissipate and blend into the glaze. You can even add a few dots of pure Thunderhawk to where the pigment has begun to pool. ***

These will become the different stains within the black tar reflected by light hitting its surface


  1. Apply a liberal covering of ‘Ardcoat (Citadel), or any gloss varnish, over the areas of Tar. You can let it bleed onto the bottom of the armour and the feet, walking through tar won’t leave your soldiers exactly clean.38
  2. Edge the lip of the base with Dryad Bark (Citadel)

I find black base edges to be a hard clash with this colour scheme, the brown is a bit softer on the overall pallet. Asher edges his with Skorne red and that’s an effective option too.


Well done commander, your strike trooper is now ready for the battlefield! Now all you have to do is repeat the process 15-25 times depending on how big your next game is. Good job.


Noise Sector




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